Old pieces carry stories, but smart buying needs clear checks. Start with the basics and move step by step. A careful eye protects your money and helps you bring home the right piece of antique jewellery. Set a purpose before you browse—daily wear, occasion wear, or collection. Fix a budget band and stick to it so emotion doesn’t override judgment.
Good decisions come from slow inspection. Hold the piece, feel the weight, look at the joins and locks, and ask for proof. The pointers below focus on what truly matters before you pay. Check the piece under natural light and then under warm indoor light to spot colour shifts and repairs. Use a loupe or phone macro video to study prongs, hinges, and any fresh solder.
1) Verify Authenticity and Age
Real antique jewellery shows age in ways copies can’t. Look for honest wear in the right places and paperwork that supports the claim.
- Study wear on edges, clasps, and the backside, because natural rub creates soft rounding while artificial distress looks patchy.
- Check maker marks and assay stamps with a loupe, and compare them against trusted charts for the claimed period.
- Ask for dated receipts, old valuations, or family notes, since provenance supports value and future resale.
- Get the return policy in writing, because a fair window allows time for independent verification.
2) Inspect Craftsmanship and Construction
Build quality reveals truth. Antique pieces were hand-finished with care, and it shows in small places.
- Examine solder points and hinges, as smooth, clean joins and easy movement signal skilled work.
- Check left-to-right symmetry, accepting tiny handmade variance but rejecting sloppy alignment.
- Test clasp strength and any safety features, ensuring closures feel secure during regular wear.
- Run a soft cloth over filigree and prongs, because snagging indicates weak or rough finishing.
3) Evaluate Metals and Testing
Metal type anchors price and durability. Confirm rather than guess by colour.
- Use a magnet to rule out steel in areas that should be gold or silver, since noble metals are not magnetic.
- Weigh the piece and compare it with period examples, because unusual weight can hint at filling or plating.
- Request non-destructive testing such as XRF at a trusted bench, and ensure results match the metal marks.
- Inspect edges for thinning or uneven tone, which often signals later plating or heavy polishing.
4) Study Stones, Settings, and Cuts
Old stones carry character. Settings should fit them well and match the era.
- Look for hand-cut facets, tiny culets, and period cuts like old mine or rose, where appropriate to the date.
- Check prongs and bezels for even pressure, because a proper seat protects the stone from loss.
- View stones under different light sources, since warmth, tint, and tiny inclusions can help confirm age.
- Ask whether any stones were replaced, because later swaps affect value and collectability.
5) Assess Condition, Repairs, and Alterations
Some repairs are normal for age, but poor work reduces value. Record everything you see.
- Look for colour shifts near joins that reveal fresh solder, as new work beside old patina often stands out.
- Check common stress points in antique jewellery like ring shoulders and bangle hinges, since thinning there is a warning sign.
- Identify replaced clasps, added extensions, or modern earring backs, and note each change in writing.
- Decide whether the repair is stable and respectful, because quality restoration can be acceptable when disclosed.
6) Fit, Comfort, and Practical Wear
Great pieces must wear well. If it hurts or snags, you will not use it.
- Fasten the clasp with one hand to confirm it opens and closes smoothly in daily conditions.
- Test how bracelets and chains flex, ensuring movement happens without sticking, grinding, or noise.
- Check weight and balance on the ear and neck, because long events require a comfortable distribution.
- Confirm options for resizing or adjustments, as some antique constructions cannot be altered safely.
7) When to Seek a Trusted Curator
Some buyers prefer curated edits and steady aftercare. A reliable house saves time and reduces risk.
- Choose sellers who disclose restorations and list materials clearly, avoiding vague descriptions.
- Expect consistent photography with scale references so size and proportion are obvious before purchase.
- Value teams who help with sizing and safe adjustments instead of rushing a quick sale.
- Explore collections from Kanhai Jewels, because stable finish, clean setting work, and clear documentation make buying simpler.
Conclusion
Careful inspection of antique jewellery turns a beautiful find into a sound decision. Start with proof of age, test metals and settings, check comfort, and confirm the paperwork. When you want a clear path through the details, work with informed sellers and curated houses like Kanhai Jewels. With steady habits and a patient eye, the right piece can move from a tempting display to a lasting favourite you love to wear.